I thought I had it solved earlier this month after attending the BC Bouldering Provincials at the Edge climbing gym. It took failing on the first two problems in finals and some rush of emotion to get it out of me. Walking back into iso I sat down in a fury and screamed inside my head. Why why why??? Why do I hesitate? Why do I second guess? Why didn’t I freaking go for it like the others do? This intense infliction stirred something inside of me. I was tired of failing. I wanted to do better. I knew I could do better. Realigning my focus with that energy of wanting to do the next problem, I turned inward and upon arriving at the problem, I read it, walked up to it, and climbed it. Just like that. No doubts, no hesitation, no falls. And although I fell off the last move of the next problem, I climbed it well, with focus and no doubt. I was elated with having broken what felt like a downward spiral trap of when it goes bad, it continues to go bad. The spell was broken. I could do this. I can do this. I did do it. And so… happy with the break though and the fact that I only trained two weeks for this comp, I walked away feeling more confident for the Nationals which were coming up in a month and a half. Plenty of time to prepare…
|Despite some mistakes I qualified into semis. I was rather psyched because even though it was small, I did the dyno! I made a rookie mistake and misread the beginning of problem four thinking the taped volume wasn’t in. I walked around and felt the holds, staring in wonder of how the I was gonna match my feet or hell, even pull on onto the wall. After trying what seemed like the impossible, I eventually asked the judge and my v12 project suddenly changed to a v4 volume problem. Phew!
PS. Besides the results i send props to BlocShop and the setting crew for setting some really good problems. This has by far been the best Nationals ever, even if i missed out on finals and a few tops..!
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